It is tradition for each First Lady to donate one of her fashion ensembles to be put on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. Last December, when stylist Bailey Moon visited Washington D.C. with his mother, they found themselves in front of two of Dr. Jill Biden’s past looks: The Markarian cerulean dress and tweed coat she wore to the 2021 inauguration and the white, floral embellished set by Gabriela Hearst she donned that evening. “There was a family in front of us and the little girl was lingering,” recalls the New York-based Moon on the phone this week from a hotel in D.C. “When her mom rushed her she said she just wanted more time to look at all the flowers.”
Moon has served as Dr. Biden’s trusted fashion advisor throughout the course of her tenure as First Lady, also working with President Joe Biden and other members of the Biden family for specific appearances. While mostly anonymous, “the work has been very fulfilling,” Moon says of his role, which “doesn’t officially exist.” “In a world where styling has become about instant gratification with celebrity style,” he says, “I have been able to experience the work transcend beyond the wearer and the curator to now be a part of history.”
While much of Moon’s responsibilities have involved serving as a liaison between the White House and fashion designers and labels to procure pieces, “it’s not just picking out an outfit,” he says. Think of Barack Obama’s much-discussed tan suit, or First Lady Melania Trump’s infamous “I really don’t care, do u?” Zara coat. The color of a tie or the cut or style of a dress, Moon said, “are part of the conclusion people make of an event or an appearance.”
“Fashion communicates without speaking a word,” the First Lady tells Vogue. “Bailey Moon was my fashion linguist. He advised and guided me with skill, grace, and kindness. He was by our side for our granddaughter’s White House wedding and knew how to meet each moment through an array of diverse, American designers. All the while, he helped me remain true to myself. I am forever grateful to him.”
Dr. Biden, Moon explains, did not merely embrace fashion, but helped advance the White House’s relationship with the industry. Under the Biden administration, Ralph Lauren became the first fashion designer to receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom. The former First Lady and President also hosted fashion designers including Lauren, Gabriela Hearst, and Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim of Oscar de la Renta at state dinners and receptions. “She never shied away from establishing a relationship with the industry,” Moon says, “Dr. Biden came into the White House appreciating and loving fashion.”
A South Carolina native, Moon recalls growing up with a keen interest in fashion, one that favored “classic references of American style” that represented American values, he says, listing Jackie Kennedy, Carolina Herrera, and Oscar de la Renta as references. After a brief stint interning for stylists in the editorial world he moved on to working in PR, which led to his first meeting with the Biden camp in 2018 when Hearst, who he was working for, dressed her for an event. “I felt then that something would come from that relationship, so I kept in touch and when they decided to run I reached out to offer my help with the campaign,” he recalls.
His role as an advisor, which had been mostly online during the campaign given the pandemic, was formalized with the 2021 inauguration. The relationship then evolved organically based on shared values about American style, Moon says, which led to him advising Naomi Biden for her 2022 nuptials. The wedding was featured in Vogue, and Moon has a cameo in one of the images by Norman Jean Roy.
As the only First Lady to maintain external employment during her time at the White House, Dr. Biden represented a departure from tradition. She also came into the role with an established political image having served as Second Lady for eight years. “The other day someone was describing to me what they think of the Bidens’ style, particularly the First Lady’s, and they said that they saw it as a return to classicality and traditional First Lady style,” Moon says, “which I would actually like to counter.”
While Dr. Biden was perhaps not trendy, her style was seldom conservative; consider a blue velvet Schiaparelli column gown for a state visit in France last year or her zippered double-breasted Ralph Lauren set for King Charles’ coronation in 2023. The First Lady also made it a point to utilize her position to uplift American designers “big and small,” from Lauren and Michael Kors to Jonathan Cohen and Marion Parke, a Minnesota-based footwear designer. She famously rewore looks for major events, unlike past First Ladies in office, like a sparkly frock by Lauren at the Democratic National Convention last year. (Rosalynn Carter wore the same blue chiffon gown to her husband Jimmy Carter’s 1977 inaugural ball as she had to his 1971 gubernatorial inauguration.) “It was important to underscore her appreciation for and the value of American craft,” Moon explains.
Moon’s work with the White House was known to some within the industry, though he remained tight-lipped while working on increasing his profile with celebrity clients. He consistently styles Morgan Spector, Rebecca Hall, Thomas Doherty, and Cristin Miloti, amongst others. “The fact that I’m able to oscillate between both is what keeps the job fresh,” Moon says.
He hopes to continue working to demystify the role of fashion in culture and politics while keeping busy with his existing roster of clients. Would he ever work with the incoming administration? “It’s a special job to be able to work with the First Family and be a part of their legacy, and I don’t take it for granted,” he says. “It’s a difficult job, and we are a small club; Meredith [Koop, advisor to Michelle Obama] has been a great friend and incredible resource, and I have respect for what Hervé Pierre [stylist to Melania Trump] does,” Moon continues. “But I would not work with the Trump administration.” While he does not feel the need to align with his political clients’ every policy, Moon says, “the values do have to be there, and I don’t align with Republican values.”
While Moon says he will take the stories of the trials and tribulations of being a White House fashion advisor to his grave, he will remember the past four years fondly. It’s not that he’s had a self-admittedly cool job, but that he feels lucky to have been able to serve as a liaison between designers he admires, like Roseberry, and the White House, plus having been able to help talents like Alexandra O’Neil of Markarian get their dues. “Dressing Dr. Biden was an honor and a privilege that was made all the more powerful by meeting her and realizing how generous and gracious and real she is as a person…and funny!” Roseberry says. “The impact that moment had on our business is not quantifiable,” O’Neill adds of outfitting Dr. Biden for the inauguration. “It completely changed our business in a matter of a moment.”
Four years later, today will be Jill Biden’s last appearance as the 46th First Lady of the United States. Moon was calling in from the last of his scheduled visits to D.C., though he doesn’t discount returning to the political space. “We don’t know what 2028 has in store,” he says.