Contents
It's all in the details.
With countless TikTok videos touting the benefits of contrast makeup, it’s safe to assume that the this viral trend will stick around longer than most. The premise of contrast makeup is utilizing light and dark tones to highlight your features based on your skin, hair, and eyes—but we wanted to dig a little deeper. Ahead, we spoke to a pro makeup artist to learn everything there is to know about contrast makeup, so keep reading for our thorough breakdown and be prepared to take notes!
Meet the expert
Alex Byrne is a celebrity makeup artist and men’s groomer working in LA and New York City
What Exactly is Contrast Makeup?
When learning about contrast makeup theory, the first thing to note is your hair, eye color, and skin tone. "Contrast makeup theory is a technique that focuses on the similarity or difference in color intensity or 'contrast' of your skin tone, hair, and eye color," says Byrne. "When you consider all three colors together, you can sense your color palette and choose makeup that harmonizes with your natural features."
The key factor in understanding contrast makeup is intensity. "Contrast makeup is the mindset of looking at makeup in terms of intensity rather than just color value," says Byrne. "For example, when we talk about a red lip, we often think of a bold, opaque bright red—which gives high intensity and contrast. But a lower contrast version could be brushing on some of that same lip color and sheering it out with lip balm, so you have the joy of the color with far less intensity and therefore lower contrast."
Low-Contrast Makeup
What is low-contrast makeup exactly? "If your features are similar in tone—for example, light blonde hair, pale skin, and blue eyes; or dark hair, deep skin tone, and brown eyes—you have low contrast because your natural tones are all very similar in value," says Byrne.
The key to creating low-contrast makeup is avoiding harsh lines or dramatic color transitions. "I would start by choosing a subtle eyeshadow or smudging in a gray or warm brown liner," says Byrne. "Then, I would even out the skin tone with a concealer or tinted moisturizer that matches your skin tone. Use a soft bronzer that is not more than a shade or so different from the skin to quietly shape up cheekbones, jawline, browbones, and forehead. For blush, a color close to your natural flush is a good option, as well as a sheer or buildable lip color or lip gloss to finish it off. Key techniques are making sure everything is well blended, colors are in the same color family, and textures are delicate."
Medium-Contrast Makeup
With medium contrast comes more intensity than that of low contrast. "Medium-contrast makeup is all about balancing subtlety and definition," noted Byrne, "For example, if your hair is black, your skin is milky caramel, and your eyes are deep brown, you want to add definition without exaggerating anything."
The key for choosing makeup tones when recreating medium-contrast makeup is to find hues not too light nor dark. "I love colors like ochre, chocolate, soft metallics, and even khaki to add dimension around the eyes for medium-contrast makeup," says Byrne. "Avoid any foundation or concealer with a super dramatic contrast to your skin tone. Bronzer can be a few shades deeper than your natural skin tone, and you can find blush colors that add a noticeable pop of color. It's the same with lips; medium-intensity colors and textures can be more obvious than low contrast, but you can still avoid super pale nudes or dark vampy shades."
If you are unsure where to start with medium-contrast tones, Byrne suggests playing around with textures to see which is most suitable: "I like bold colors with sheer textures for medium contrast; they add dimension with a wash of color. Play with textures, using a mix of matte shimmer and satin to create dimension without too much contrast."
High-Contrast Makeup
With high-contrast makeup, drama is showcased more so than with low- and medium-contrast makeup. "If you have striking differences between your hair, skin tone, and eye color, high contrast is the opportunity to use bold colors and dramatic textures," says Byrne.
Feel free to experiment with bolder, pigmented eyeshadows and eyeliners for smokier eye looks; Byrne is a fan of smudging eyeliner, "Liners can be smudged in for a smokey look or drawn graphically into a cat-eye for high-contrast makeup. The more mascara, the better." High contrast also allows for more noticeable definition in the skin. "Feel free to use bronzer for good definition and vibrant pops of color on your cheeks," says Byrne. "For lips, reds, berries, plums, and pinks—they all work well and appear balanced. The most important thing is to embrace contrast and not fear graphic designs. If you're not a bold color person, you can play with a mix of matte, shimmer, and metallic finishes to add contrast and dimension with less color."
The Takeaway
Anyone can benefit from contrast makeup, it comes down to learning what type of contrast you are, and following suit in the colors and finishes of makeup products you choose. Whether you fall into the category of low, medium, or high contrast, this trend will benefit you the most once you've nailed your color palette. Are you wiling to give contrast makeup a try?