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Bleached brows are everywhere. Though a futuristic, hyper-stylized look today, covering the brow can be traced back to the Middle Ages and spotted throughout the Elizabethan era when a high forehead was in fashion. However, the modern take on the trend emerged a few decades ago.
“Brow bleaching first became popular in the early ’90s following appearances on the runway via Alexander McQueen and Anna Sui,” says makeup and brow artist Dani Kimiko Vincent. “At that time, it was a club kid counterculture look.” She notes that the bleached brow was sported by the likes of Madonna and models Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss (thanks to makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin).
Over the last several years, the resurgence of '90s and Y2K aesthetics has elicited a bleached brow renaissance, and for good reason. "Bleaching brows can open up the eye area and give you more visual room to play with eye makeup, and it gives a cool editorial vibe that also works in real life," says Vincent. The look has been sported by everyone, including Kendall Jenner, Julia Fox, FKA Twigs, and more.
In this case, a lack of color is among the boldest looks of the moment. Read on to learn how to get bleached brows from the comfort of your own home.
How to Bleach Your Brows at Home
Bleaching your own brows is not for the faint of heart. In addition to the striking results, applying bleach to your face requires an abundance of care to protect the integrity of your hair, eyes, and skin. "As a brow specialist, I encourage people to see a pro for bleaching, changes in brow color or brow shape," says Vincent. Still, if you find yourself in need of a DIY brow bleach, these six expert steps will help to ensure a safe and stylish lightening experience.
“The most readily available bleaching product is Jolen Creme Bleach, which can be found at most drugstores,” says Vincent. “Follow the enclosed instructions for the cream bleach, which includes a patch test.” This brings us to our first step…
Start With a Patch Test
A patch test helps to determine if your skin will have any adverse or allergic reactions to your chosen bleach. Before you do anything to your beloved brows, apply bleach to a small spot on the inside of your arm or wrist. Hold off for 24-48 hours post-patch to ensure your skin is clear before proceeding with your makeover.
Frame With Protectant
"If you did not have an adverse reaction during a patch test and deem it safe to proceed, apply a protectant (like Vaseline) with a Q-tip all around the outside edges of your eyebrows to protect the surrounding skin," says Vincent. This will help ensure the bleach stays within the designated lines, minimizing potential irritation and protecting and nourishing delicate eye area skin.
Apply the Bleach
"Apply the bleach with a spoolie, ensuring that it is applied to the roots in order to achieve the most even lightening. You can even back comb the product with the spoolie to ensure you’re coating all the roots," says Vincent. "One concern is bleach falling down into the eyes, so use a piece of plastic wrap and cover the brows to prevent bleach dropping where you do not want it."
Check Your Color
Don't wait until the prescribed time is up to check on your bleached brow's progression. "Everyone’s brows will lighten at different rates depending on the starting color, coarseness, and texture of the hair—the best way to avoid over-bleaching is to periodically check the brow color," says Vincent.
Remove Product
You did it! Now take it off—the bleach, not your brows. "Once you get to your desired color (dark hair can require several sessions), remove the product and clean well using a water-dampened cotton round or tissue," says Vincent.
Tone Things Up
“Often the color will be more yellow, orange-toned, or brassy than expected, especially if your brows were quite dark, to begin with, and this is where a toner that is purple-based will come in handy to reduce the brassiness,” says Vincent. “You can also use a purple shampoo like Fanola No Yellow Shampoo and leave it on brows for up to ten minutes to help cool the tone down.” As with the actual bleaching, check your toning brows every few minutes to ensure your desired results.
Risks of Bleaching Your Brows
Again, this is bleach that we're talking about—bleach near your eyes. "If you are going to venture into brow bleaching at home, remember that you are using chemical products around the eye area, so you’ll want to proceed with caution and enlist the help of a friend when possible," says Vincent. "Bleach and peroxide are chemicals, and unfortunately, that means there’s not much room for error. Leaving the product on too long can damage brow hair (it can actually singe off), and your skin can get burned by the bleach."
Starting with a patch test can help you gauge your skin's sensitivity to bleach before diving in. According to Vincent, as the bleach develops, it tends to foam up and fall in pieces, increasing the potential for leakage into your eyes or onto your clothes. Cover your brows with plastic while the chemical does its thing to prevent unnecessary drippage. If the product gets into your eyes, flush immediately with water and consult a doctor.
Throughout your bleaching journey, pay close attention to how your skin feels and adjust (or remove) as needed. "You will likely feel some itching (which is normal), but any burning or strong discomfort means you should immediately remove the product and rinse thoroughly with water as your skin is having a reaction," says Vincent.
Basically, while bleached brows are undoubtedly a fun and irreverent choice, it's best to behave like an extremely cautious rule-follower throughout the actual process.
How to Care for Bleached Brows
Bleach works by stripping the natural pigment from your hair, which means that post-bleach strands are delicate and in want of extra moisture. "Treat brows as gently as possible after bleaching," says Vincent. "The hair will be more fragile and it’s important to nourish it with emollient products."
The brow artist suggests investing in a nourishing brow gel for daytime wear—her own, KIMIKO’s The Brow Sensei, contains peptides, plant extracts, and castor oil—and taking your nighttime skincare all the way through the brows before bed. Be sure to avoid any particularly harsh, alcohol-containing products, too.
As for color maintenance? That depends on your hair and how many levels you lighten. "The darker the original hair and the faster the regrowth, the more you’ll be working to maintain the look," says Vincent. "It can be a matter of touching up every two weeks, keeping in mind that you’ll only leave the bleach on for a fraction of the time that you did when you first lightened them, as hair can become overly brittle when bleached repeatedly."
Between touch-ups, Vincent recommends using concealer to camouflage root regrowth between touch-ups. “I recommend a full coverage formula in liquid format, which thinly coats hairs but still lends coverage,” says Vincent. “Lancome’s Teint Idole Ultra Wear All Over Full Coverage Concealer is a great concealer with plenty of shade options, and you can also use it to emulate a bleached brow look if you’re not sure you’re ready to take the full leap.”
How to Style Bleached Brows
Styling your bleached brows is as idiosyncratic an enterprise as the unique style itself, but starting with the correct shade is essential. "I recommend lightening eyebrows to a level that matches close to your skin tone as this makes brows blend away and gives you lots of room to play and create endless eye makeup and brow looks," says Vincent.
And play, you should! Bleached brows can be styled as an homage to the '90s (think: noir lips and little else) or a nod at futuristic alien-meets-A.I. beauty, supplemented with shimmer and gemstones. Alternately, your bleached brows can be worn within your standard makeup look, serving as the only shift in an otherwise tried-and-true routine.