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Hint: The combination is a sweet spot for your skin health.
One of the many tasks of adulthood is building a team of doctors and experts who you trust enough to put your health, body, and goals in their hands. Take, for instance, your skin. As we age, our skin needs change, so it's important to figure out when to see an esthetician vs. a dermatologist so you can stay on top of your skin health.
Meet the expert
- Sofie Pavitt is an esthetician in New York City and the founder of skincare brand Sofie Pavitt Face.
- Blair Murphy Rose, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor at Weill Cornell Medicine in New York City.
- Shereene Idriss, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, founder of Idriss Dermatology, and founder of skincare brand Dr. Idriss.
- Joanna Czech is a New York City- and Dallas-based esthetician and founder of the eponymous skincare brand.
Keep reading to learn the differences between the two kinds of skincare pros and when to pay each a visit.
What’s the difference between a dermatologist and an esthetician?
The short answer: Education and training. A dermatologist is a medical doctor, which means they go through four years of medical school followed by a dermatology residency. “They have the ability to diagnose skin conditions, prescribe medications, and treat life-threatening skin disorders,” says board-certified dermatologist Shereene Idriss, MD. “Dermatologists cover a broad range of areas related to the skin, hair, and nails.”
An esthetician, on the other hand, goes through many hours of rigorous training, followed by written and practical exams. “In the U.S., the number of hours of training required to become an esthetician vary from state to state but typically ranges between 600 and 1,200 hours,” says Dr. Idriss. Estheticians only focus on skin, and they cannot diagnose medical conditions. Still, they can refer you to a dermatologist and create a complementary treatment plan that follows your dermatologist’s recommendations.
“Dermatologists and estheticians often collaborate, especially in practices offering both medical and cosmetic skincare,” board-certified dermatologist Blair Murphy Rose, MD, FAAD, tells InStyle. “We may refer patients to see estheticians for services that complement our skin-care treatments and recommendations.”
When to visit a dermatologist
Everyone should see a dermatologist for a skin cancer screening at least once a year, but, depending on your individual risk factors, you might be encouraged to go more frequently. “At that visit, your dermatologist will mention any skin conditions they notice, and you can address any skin concerns you may have,” says Dr. Murphy Rose. A few medical reasons you may want to see a derm between scheduled skin cancer screenings? If you have a new or enlarging mole or lesion, a non-healing skin wound, or a spot that meets the ABCDE criteria for melanoma. But you can—and should—see a derm for more than just skin cancer-related check-ups. “Many acute or chronic rashes, skin infections, acne, eczema, rosacea, hair thinning, and so many other skin, hair, and nail conditions can be best diagnosed and managed by a board-certified dermatologist,” says Dr. Murphy Rose.
If you don’t have a dermatologist yet, make sure you do your research when looking for one. “Board certification matters,” says Dr. Idriss. “This indicates that the dermatologist has met rigorous standards of training and expertise in the field.” Dr. Murphy Rose adds that some dermatologists specialize in certain conditions, which could be helpful if you experience something like rosacea, eczema, or cystic acne.
When you first meet with a dermatologist, you'll have the opportunity to discuss any skin, hair, or nail concerns you have. “This may include symptoms you're experiencing, changes in your skin's appearance, or specific areas of concern you'd like the dermatologist to evaluate,” says Dr. Idriss. “The dermatologist will then perform a thorough examination and, based on the findings of the skin examination and your discussion of concerns, provide a diagnosis and recommend a treatment plan.” A dermatologist also has the ability to prescribe medications like tretinoin and steroid creams, which is something to consider if you have chronic skin issues.
When to visit an esthetician
Estheticians focus on the aesthetics of skin, using tailored facials, peels, lasers, massage, and injections to treat your skin concerns. So if you’re working with things like dehydration, acne scarring, and fine lines and wrinkles, an esthetician is your best bet. To maintain your results, celebrity esthetician Joanna Czech recommends people visit their estheticians every three to six weeks. “This aligns with the skin’s cellular turnover cycle of about 28 days,” she says. “Regular visits help maintain optimal skin health, address emerging issues promptly, and provide ongoing support to achieve and sustain your desired results.” If visiting every three to six weeks isn’t feasible, Czech recommends seeing an esthetician at least once per season, because, as you might notice, our skin changes with the seasons. For example, you might notice more oil production and breakouts in the summer, and more dryness and irritation in the winter. Seeing an esthetician can help soothe these seasonal skin woes.
Just like finding a dermatologist, it’s crucial to do your research when you’re starting your search for an esthetician. Look for a reputable esthetician with proper licensing and credentials, and a philosophy that aligns with your skincare goals. “Picking a facialist is like choosing a hairdresser: you have to click together to understand what you want to get out of this treatment and your provider, and you should be aligned on this,” says New York City-based esthetician Sofie Pavitt. Czech says another green flag to look for is that the esthetician offers individualized facials instead of just promoting one skin-care brand.
“A good esthetician will first do a skin analysis, and then ask you what products you use and what your skin goals are so they can put a plan of action in place not only for your first visit, but others to come,” says Pavitt. Estheticians often talk you through your treatment, explaining what they’re noticing about your skin (oil production, congested pores, fine lines, etc.) and educating—not shaming—you about how to maintain results at home. Czech says that estheticians will often recommend products to you during your treatment, but you should never feel pressure to buy them.
How to choose between an esthetician and a dermatologist
It can be tough to know who to see for your specific situation. “If your skin is feeling dry, you have discoloration or breakouts and/or pore congestion, going to an esthetician can be beneficial to have a consultation on what products you’re using and what kind of treatments can help,” says Pavitt. “But if you’re dealing with an acute skin concern like a rash, severe nodular acne, or any type of lesion on the skin that has changed shape or color, you should go to a derm to check it out.”
Of course, there are some blurred lines and situations where you could see an esthetician or a dermatologist. At that point, you must decide whether you’re looking for an immediate cosmetic treatment or a diagnosis. “Dermatologists diagnose and treat medical skin conditions with medications, while an esthetician's goal is to support healthy skin,” says Czech. Your best bet? Find one of each to keep your skin health in tip-top shape.