With 400 miles of Atlantic shoreline, Rhode Island is a coastal destination that packs extraordinary beauty within its tiny borders. Known as “The Ocean State,” it boasts hard-working harbor towns, fresh seafood, stunning beaches, and quintessential New England allure. Founded as a haven for independent thought, Rhode Island’s statehood was initially met with significant resistance, largely due to Roger Williams’s advocacy for separating the colony from Massachusetts and Connecticut and pushing for religious freedom. This history of defiance perhaps explains why Rhode Islanders have always prided themselves on having a fierce independent streak—a fact that is particularly evident in the capital city, Providence.
Yet if you scratch the surface of Providence’s brusque New England persona, you’ll find an intensely creative town that welcomes dreamers, creatives, young families, students, and diverse communities from around the world. Often overshadowed by northeastern hubs like Boston and New York, Providence has undergone a dramatic transformation over the last few decades, with efforts aimed at cleaning up the riverfront, creating more pedestrian pathways, and revitalizing the downtown area. With an impressive roster of colleges and universities, including Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), Providence College, and Brown University, the city, though impressive, remains unpretentious. I’ve called this city home for 15 years, and its unique blend of blue-collar charm and refined Ivy League sophistication, where historical elegance meets a quirky creative spirit, captivates me more with each passing year.
Here, find Vogue’s guide to this under-the-radar creative capital—and why now is the time to visit.
What to Do
Spanning nearly 19 square miles, with a population of around 190,000, Providence is a city defined by its diverse neighborhoods—25 in total—each with its own unique character. The Providence River acts as a natural boundary, separating College Hill, Fox Point, and Wayland to the east, from Downtown, Olneyville, West End, and Federal Hill to the west.
Living here means living among history, so that’s a good place to start. Providence's dedication to preservation and architectural appreciation is evident everywhere, from self-guided walking tours like the Early Black History Tour to the monumental ‘Still Here’ mural on 32 Custom House Street. This striking artwork depicts a contemporary Narragansett woman, Lynsea Montanari, holding a portrait of Princess Red Wing, a Narragansett/Pokanoket-Wampanoag elder, who is surrounded by symbolic imagery of native flora. The mural, commissioned by The Avenue Concept, speaks to the past, present, and future of the land’s original inhabitants, the Narragansett and Mashpee Wampanoag, who long predated Roger Williams’s founding of Rhode Island in 1636. The sprawling, 435-acre Roger Williams Park, located in the South Elmwood neighborhood, is named after the founder and serves as a lush urban oasis, offering a variety of attractions such as manicured gardens, recreational ponds, and historic landmarks.
Continue the history tour with a visit to College Hill, home to Brown University and RISD, hence the name. Their campuses and surrounding streets, lined with historic and architecturally significant homes, are worth a wander. The RISD Museum houses a remarkable collection of over 100,000 design objects and fine art, including masterpieces by Monet, Manet, Picasso, and Warhol. While at the museum, indulge in a coffee and pastry from Bolt Coffee, a much loved Rhode Island coffee roaster, and shop RISD Works at the RISD Store, showcasing creations by RISD faculty and alumni. A block away, the Providence Athenaeum, a magnificent Greek Revival-style library founded in 1753, invites public visits.
Head to the west side of the city, where neighborhoods like Olneyville and Valley once thrived during Providence’s manufacturing era. Today they host artist collectives, galleries, and performance spaces like Steel Yard, The Wurks, and Dirt Palace, a feminist art collective that operates out of the gorgeous Wedding Cake House. I suggest having a car on this side of town since places are generally quite spread out. Visit Riffraff Bookstore and Bar for literary finds, Black Leaf Tea, a Black women-owned tea shop, and World’s Fair Gallery, which showcases original artwork from Providence artists. Industrious Spirit Co. (ISCO), Providence’s first distillery since before Prohibition, is located across the street from Farm Fresh RI’s hub, which bustles with a flower shop, local food stalls, New Harvest coffee shop, and on Saturdays from November to April, an indoor farmer’s market. With a mission centered on building a sustainable food system for local farmers and eaters, and increasing the accessibility and affordability of fresh, local finds, Farm Fresh RI plays a vital role in the community.
For those craving culture, check out Trinity Repertory Company, renowned for its innovative theater productions since 1963. Experience live performances ranging from classical ballet to Broadway shows at the Providence Performing Arts Center, a stunning masterpiece of gilded decor and intricate plasterwork. Dive into the lively arts community at AS220, offering a diverse calendar of performances, exhibits, studio space, and art classes.
Where to Shop
The East Side is a haven for boutique shopping, with many locally owned and independent stores. The neighborhoods here are close together, making it easily walkable. Fox Point has emerged as a shopping destination with Fox Point Grocers offering specialty foods and everyday staples, Twenty Stories, a tightly curated indie bookstore (and their neighboring bar, Glou), Nava for unique jewelry and clothing, and Asterfields, a jewel-box of a gift shop, as well as the recent arrival of Stewart House. “We grew up hearing that a home isn't complete without art, and that art isn't limited to the walls but includes beautiful everyday objects,” says Karen Deutsch, who opened Stewart House with her sister, Ellen, in June 2023. Their expertly curated home decor store, which filled a void in the Providence shopping scene, features goods from around the world, including Rose Ann Hall glassware from Mexico, Soil to Studio block-printed pillows from Jaipur, and whimsical embroidered animals from German maker Anke Drechsel. Continue shopping along South Main Street, home to the chic Bangled Tiger, with its vintage and modern clothing collection, and Good Dog Antiques, for mid-century finds.
On Hope Street, favorites include Stock Culinary Goods for kitchenware and cookbooks, Kreatelier for unique gifts and custom home decor, and Frog & Toad for eclectic, cheeky finds. Wayland Square boasts Books on the Square, my beloved neighborhood bookshop, East Side Cheese for gourmet provisions, Madrid European Bakery for delightful pastries, Coco Goose which stocks fashion brands like Veronica Beard, Rag & Bone, and Ulla Johnson, and Paper Nautilus Books, for a curated collection of rare book, flea market treasures, antiques, and art prints.
Locally-based creative brands like Namu, Kutty Knives, Nest Homeware, Lindquist, and Studio Ayumiya, despite not having a physical storefront, merit recognition. Their products can be found online and in various stores across town.
Where to Eat
For a small city in the country’s tiniest state, Providence punches in far above its weight when it comes to the restaurant scene. This year alone the city saw numerous James Beard nominations including Sky Haneul Kim of Gift Horse in the Emerging Chef category, Courtland Club for Outstanding Bar, and Best Chef Northeast nominees Maria Meza of Dolores, recognized for her outstanding Oaxacan cuisine, and Subat Dilmurat of Jahunger, celebrated for his Uygher food.
The city impresses with its diverse dining options, from celebrated upscale establishments like Oberlin, Pickerel, and Al Forno, to a classic New England seafood shack near the waterfront, Dune Brothers. You can travel the world through the dining scene so be sure to explore Federal Hill for Italian food and the plentiful Portuguese bakeries around town. Depending on your cravings, Los Andes offers delicious Peruvian and Bolivian cuisine, while Aleppo Sweets, a Syrian bakery and café, serves the most outstanding baklava and mezze. For handcrafted tacos and homemade salsas, visit Tallulah’s, a beloved taqueria where owner Jake Rojas—born and raised in El Paso—infuses his roots into every dish on the menu.
Thanks to the plethora of culinary talents, there are also numerous pop-ups, often with lines out the door. “I think it really just boils down to our local community,” says Nikhil Naiker, the chef-in-residence at Courtland Club, when asked about what makes Providence an ideal place for pop-ups. “We have a lot of people who are willing to make room for new ideas and actively support them.” Pop-ups offer emerging chefs the opportunity to explore their passion and refine their skills without investing heavily in brick-and-mortar. It’s always fun to see pop-up favorites transition into permanent spaces, however. This year has seen the arrival of Irregardless Biscuit, There, There, where you should absolutely get The Dream Burger, and Frank & Laurie’s, a delightful neighborhood brunch and lunch spot. The late spring menu features perfectly fluffy biscuits, warm from the oven and served with a side of rhubarb jam, a herbaceous salad with a tangy coriander vinaigrette, and aromatic piperade served over lamb meatballs. Ice cream aficionados are anxiously awaiting Big Feeling’s soon-to-open shop after years of chasing their wildly popular pop-ups around town.
“What amazes me is the cultural diversity of the people here, which fosters a deep sense of curiosity,” says Robert Andreozzi, co-owner and chef of the wildly popular Pizza Marvin located in Fox Point. Curiosity and openness to new experiences are what fuel Providence’s vibrant creativity, allowing innovative restaurants and funky ideas to flourish. Since opening in late 2020, Pizza Marvin has cultivated a loyal following with its New Haven-style-inspired pizzas and classic, quirky 90’s style, crispy thick-crust cheese and pepperoni, locally harvested raw bar, inventive soft serve combinations, and cocktail combinations featuring local and seasonal flavors. Various chef friends often drop in for creative collaborations which keeps it exciting, such as the 12 Pies of Christmas, where a dozen local chefs serve their unique spin on pizza with profits going to a community non-profit organization.
Where to Stay
From elegant historic properties in the heart of downtown to a wool dyeing factory turned artful boutique hotel, here are a handful of stylish lodging options.
The Beatrice
The fully restored Exchange Bank Building now houses The Beatrice, a tasteful 47-room boutique hotel that includes an elegant Italian restaurant, Bellini, and a rooftop bar with striking views of the city skyline. The rooms feature herringbone floors and soaring windows, and are decked out with luxury amenities including Mascioni linens, BeeKind organic bath products, and a curated selection of books.
Book NowThe Graduate Hotel
Nearby, the city’s legendary Biltmore Hotel, built in 1922, has gotten a makeover as The Graduate Hotel, although its old-school charm is still on full display. Historic details include the lobby’s original ornate ceiling and famed glass-and-brass elevator, though the rooms feel decidedly modern and scholarly with a mix of plaid and leather. Both are located in the center of downtown, ideal for strolling the Providence Riverwalk, popping into the shops along bustling Westminster Street, including Symposium Books, an eclectic indie bookstore, or grabbing a late-night cocktail at The Eddy.
Book NowDye House
Once a wool dyeing factory built in 1880, Dye House has transformed over the centuries from a furniture maker’s abode to a ceramics studio and now into a boutique hotel. Located in the artsy Olneyville neighborhood, the space honors its creative past and the vibrant energy of the area by showcasing local artists’ and designers’ talents, including bespoke decor by O&G Studio and Ben and Aja Blanc. If you’re open to a slightly off-the-beaten-path location, Dye House offers a refreshing departure from typical hotels.
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